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INSTRUCTIONS FOR WALK SAW blades
The first facts that must be determined are:
(1) What are you cutting &
(2) What is the total depth of cut?
14" blades will give you a
depth of cut up to 5-1/2". Note that the OSHA rule is: Diameter (14")
less 3" for hub = 11” divide by 2 = 5-1/2".
In
some cases 5/8" can be added to depth of cut, but to be safe it is
recommended that you use the formula without the 5/8".
It is a proven fact that step cutting is
much faster than plunge cutting. Professional Cutters will run 1 to1-1/2" max
per cut. Test after test have been run using the same make and same HP walk saws
and the same blades to make 4" and 6" cuts. One saw step cuts 1" at a time, and
the other plunge cuts 4" and 6". The saw cutting 1" at a time completes the job
20% faster, and with 25% to 30% less diamond wear. Not only will step cutting
add additional life to your diamond blades, but it also extends the life of the
walk saw.
Before starting a cut, request that a 2' to 3'
path be cleared on each side of the cut. A flat shovel or preferably a broom
should be used to clear away any debris or stones. Walk saws are heavy, and a
small stone may stop a hand pushed saw dead in its tracks, or a self-propelled
saw may run over the stone causing the saw to tilt. This results in excessive
blade wear or it may cause the blade to seize, possible segment damage, and/or
damage the transmission of the saw.
Before starting a cut, request that a 2' to 3'
path be cleared on each side of the cut. A flat shovel or preferably a broom
should be used to clear away any debris or stones. Walk saws are heavy, and a
small stone may stop a hand pushed saw dead in its tracks, or a self-propelled
saw may run over the stone causing the saw to tilt. This results in excessive
blade wear or it may cause the blade to seize, possible segment damage, and/or
damage the transmission of the saw.
Always instruct the operator to step cut no
deeper than 1" to 1-1/2" to allow the saw to run at its max RPM so that he can
see how much faster your blades will cut without bogging down the saw. Always
watch for any up and down movement of the front of saw. There should be
absolutely no up and down movement, and if so, 99% of the time, the operator is
cutting to deep and/OR attempting to cut to fast, or the bond of the diamond
blade IS to hard to cut (grind) the material.
Cutting curbs and
gutters with a walk saw is the biggest error that anyone can make. Curbs and
gutters are made with a different grade of concrete and is also heavily
re-enforced with rebar. Not only does it subject your walk saw to the
possibility of unnecessary damage, but also subjects your diamond blade to
excessive wear and possible segment damage.
Therefore we suggest that you use a LS10TSGPW125 turbo- segmented blade
on a hand held saw. These blades are specifically engineered for cutting
re-enforced concrete pipe, paver brick, hard concrete, curbs and gutters. The
most important thing to remember when cutting curbs & gutters with a walk or
hand held saw is:
Remove an area of at least 7" of the
dirt, gravel and/or sand from behind the curb, and as deep as possible to keep
the diamond blade from being exposed to aggregate that is more abrasive than the
concrete that you are cutting.
The
LS10TSGPW125 turbo - segmented blades
cuts two (2) times faster than any other blade
and therefore for small jobs, sidewalks, and emergency cuts, it is the blade of
choice for hand held saws and 16 to 18 HP walks or lower. We must educate the
street and water departments that in an emergency when a walk saw is not
available, simply use the
LS10TSGPW125 turbo - segmented blades
in a hand held saw to quickly make a 3" to 4" cut around the area before
breaking out the concrete. Breaking out concrete without first making a 3" to
4" cut is what causes cracks to run several feet outside of the repair area, and
results in much higher repair costs.
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